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Old 06-24-2015, 01:00 PM
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Default Space Invaders stops working after it warms up

I have a Space Invaders pinball machine (SS). It is my first machine and in very good condition, but lately I have been having an issue with it. When I first power it on, everything works as it should, but after it is on for awhile (~1hr) and warms up, it stops working. All of the lighting/sounds still function, but none of the solenoids will energize (i.e. ball return, drop targets, flippers, etc... all cease to function). If I turn the machine off and let it cool down again, then everything will work until it warms up again.

I'm guessing that this will (hopefully) be a simple fix, but since it is my first pin, I am not sure where to look first. Does anyone have an idea of what the problem could be?
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Old 06-24-2015, 11:33 PM
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does the machine still have the original mpu and fuse/rectifier boards? when the machine stops working does the LED on the mpu come on and stay on ? does any of the playfield switches score points ? does the displays show the correct scores ? does the sequencing lights in the head work correctly ? other than the GI lighting , do the controlled lights on the playfield still work correctly ? does the fuse/rectifier board have any burn marks on any of its 3 connectors ? when this happens will the machine allow you to go into the self test and what functions work correctly ? has there ever been any battery acid corrosion damage to the mpu board ? heat up problems on this era bally are usually mpu or fuse/rectifier board related.
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Old 06-28-2015, 04:34 AM
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I am not 100% sure, but based on the way the MPU looks, it seems that it was replaced at one time by a previous owner. It looks much newer that the other boards and has a newer-style battery installed. There is no corrosion on the board.

When the machine stops working, the playfield switches still score points & the displays show the correct scores. All of the sequencing lights in the head work correctly and all of the lighting seems to be working properly.

I am not sure if the fuse/rectifier boards are original.The fuse/rectifier board doesn't have any burn marks on any of its 3 connectors - but they all look like they may have been replaced at some point.

When it warms up/stops working, I can still go into the self-test. Everything works correctly, except for the solenoid test, where nothing fires.
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Old 06-28-2015, 02:02 PM
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the next step is to take voltage readings with a DMM (digital multi meter) on the rectifier/fuse board. set the DMM for dc volts range high enough to read 43 volts dc. hook up the black DMM lead to the grounding braid and connect the red lead to TP5 (test point) it should be the top right TP. 43volts dc + or - a couple volts is normal. other 43vdc test points are on the boards 3 jacks ,do not disconnect the wire jacks from the board. sticking the red probe into the back of the jack where the wire goes in. jack 1 (J1) pin or position 6 , J2 pin 2 , and J3 pins 9,12, and 13 should all have the same reading as TP5. all jacks pin 1 will start on the left. take these readings right after machine is turned on and after machine warms up. post voltage readings. a common bally fuse/rectifier board warm up problem is cracked solder connections on these male jack pins and have to be re-flowed for proper operation , that involves removing the board from the mounting plate.
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Old 07-02-2015, 02:58 AM
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For the past few days, the game has been working properly - so I haven't really investigated any further. Today it started acting up almost immediately after I booted it up, but this time the self-test is telling me that the #4 switch is faulting (spinning target). Someone told me that the resistors(?) can go bad and that you can just snip them off if you need to. I'm not sure about that though...
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Old 07-04-2015, 11:04 AM
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im not sure what resistors you are talking about. cutting out parts that you dont know what they are or dont know what they are used for is not good advice.
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