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  #1  
Old 12-18-2013, 09:45 PM
gr3yh47 gr3yh47 is offline
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Default Wico Af-tor won't start, general illumination only

Hi all,

trying to buy my first pin. New to the hobby, been playing a lot of virtual pin but want to learn real nudging. looks like I can get a very good deal on a Wico Af-tor machine but I need to get it working first, the current owner is letting me work on it at his house before buying it.

First off, Here's the operator's manual, including schematics: http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/25/Wic...Tor_Manual.pdf
when I reference the manual I will use the page numbers printed on the page corners, the PDF page is always 3 numbers higher.

Ok. So when plugged in, all I get is general illumination. (http://i.imgur.com/WfWbrKo.jpg) there were 2 blown fuses that have been replaced and still the same situation. The diagnostic LED digit display and all other displays do not come on. I believe the control board is not getting power. The diagnostic LED digit display at the bottom of the control board does not light up: http://i.imgur.com/3ZtxnUP.jpg this is mentioned on page 5 of the manual.

So First thing is to get the displays working. I replaced 2 blown fuses (Identified by visual inspection + corresponding LEDs being out) Still no luck.

So looking at the troubleshooting section, on page 41, stepping through the "No Display" steps I checked #1, F5 LED is good. #2 says to check the F7 LED but F7 and F8 BOTH seem to have NO LED! at least not that I can see... I replaced both fuses anyway, and am still in the same state of things. There is one, very dim LED on the opposite corner from the fuses

Pics of the board, no flash to show LEDS: http://i.imgur.com/qVLV1YC.png

Flash to show Board: http://i.imgur.com/p1IP6GW.jpg

#3 gives instructions for If the RED LED is on and there is a C on the test display. The RED LED is on but nothing on the test display.

I'm going back to his house on Saturday with a voltmeter. What should I be doing as my next steps?

thanks for reading. Help me Obi-pin kenobi, you're my only hope.
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Old 12-19-2013, 02:11 AM
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Your schematic shows 8 fuses. Did any of the fuses you replaced blow again?
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Old 12-19-2013, 08:06 AM
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None of them blew again.
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Old 12-19-2013, 11:13 AM
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I got eye strain trying to understand your power supply late last night. Looks like there should be +40 volts[for fluorescent display?] +48V for solenoids and the usual +5V Logic. The +6.3V for general Illum is not controlled on driver board. As for test points, "Go Fish"... I'll take another look when I can for other outputs and places to test.

I would help us to know what fuses were blown...C_S

The voltage for sound amplifier Is not shown and it's +B / -B not referenced to Gnd. Looks like all all other +v are returned to a common ground.

Flippers are controlled on driver board.
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Last edited by Coil_Smoke; 12-19-2013 at 11:32 AM. Reason: Adding info
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Old 12-19-2013, 11:19 AM
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Thanks for taking an interest in this really encouraging.

F1 was badly/obviously blown and F7 was blown. F8 may also have been blown, saw some really light browning and couldnt tell for sure so replaced it just to be sure.

i see you live near baltimore. I'm in white marsh and the pin is in fallston. want to have a look at it? heh.
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Old 12-19-2013, 03:08 PM
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F1 fuse 7 amps for solenoids. F7 is "filaments" and I"m not 100% sure but guess that is part of the fluorescent displays. You would think F1 blowing would be from a bad display component. F8 is 5 amps for something but I have not found it's location yet. Power off and Check across all fuses for [close to]Zero ohms both in and out of circuits. Let me know what F8 powers/where it is. it is interesting to delve into a WICO game for a change. Sorry but health makes it difficult to travel these days...C_S
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Old 12-19-2013, 03:16 PM
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f8 is the pink boxed fuse on the right side here http://i.imgur.com/qVLV1YC.png but no idea how to find what it powers. And sorry for my ignorance but how do i check for 0 ohms in and out of the fuses (i'll have access to a multimeter but literally need to know where to put the leads and what setting to put it on)
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Old 12-19-2013, 03:32 PM
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You are checking for continuity with your meter. Set your VOM for lowest,like Rx1, ohm's setting. then touch the leads to both sides of the fuse. Then put the fuse back in the game and touch the leads to both sides of the holder. The multimeter sends out a small current that flows through what you are testing. you want a good fuse to test about zero resistance.That is, it should read about the same as touching the leads to each other. depending on your meter you may have to check the leads are in the correct holes for a ohms test. never try to check for resistance with power on in a circuit.
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Last edited by Coil_Smoke; 12-19-2013 at 04:16 PM. Reason: added stuff
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Old 12-19-2013, 03:59 PM
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Cool design there with Wico having Led's for all those fuses. That dim led CR100? looks to be in amidst logic circuits.Low +5v in that area? Fuse F8 may help protect components from shorts in lamp or switch matrix.
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Old 12-19-2013, 04:14 PM
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i do like the design with the LEDs for each fuse but I am confused in the troubleshooting section i mentioned in the OP... it says check F7 LED.... F7 doesnt seem to have an LED...

I will check all the fuses, what should i do if they all check out as good?
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Old 12-19-2013, 04:30 PM
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Good question! If the fuses are all good and you cant get 1 to blow. You need to make sure your power supplies are all good. Then it gets tougher. I think you will need better help.




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Old 12-19-2013, 04:44 PM
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Think it over before you buy into this machine. Consider price[asking?] , condition and the fact that is is an unusual( a least to me) manufacturer. These problems can be quite hard to find and can you afford to replace circuit boards and displays? There is a good repair shop in Towson, Expect an advanced repair to be at least $150 and easily 3,4 or 5 hundred bucks.
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:45 PM
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Coilsmoke F8 is here on this board it is rated as a sloblo 250vac
but what it powers is anyone's guess
as I can't find any reference to it anywhere in the schematics
FOUND IT it sits on the driver/power supply board
trace the schematics for its destination
page 29 shows the driver board schematic
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/25/Wic...Tor_Manual.pdf
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Old 01-08-2014, 10:59 AM
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good advice coil_smoke and faralos. the availibility of parts,displays, and boards for a odd manuf. will be low if you can even find them.
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Old 01-09-2014, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinballdaveh View Post
good advice coil_smoke and faralos. the availibility of parts,displays, and boards for a odd manuf. will be low if you can even find them.

$100 to buy the game and $220 + some tax parts and labor to get it to 100%

the reason the diagnostic LED was showing nothing was the CPU was bad. this was discovered by swapping it with the housekeeping CPU (same chip) which then showed us a diagnostic light of 4, and the tests after 4 all have to do with the housekeeping CPU. After putting a known good chip in place of the bad one, all diagnostics passed, and there was just some minor transistor replacements for incorrect lights and solenoids firing.
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Old 01-09-2014, 03:54 PM
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Well...That could be a unusually good deal . To snag a '100%' functioning machine like that for less than $350 sounds almost too good. It is a bit of a gambol with failure of major components unique to WICO/AF-TOR. Did you say you have the replacement CPU? I figure many other more usual parts would be standard pinball fare. The machine looks cool. 4 Pop Bumpers,Florescent displays, dual in-lanes and ramps that should give the game a nice flow. I like the use of the drop targets and the rugged artwork. We live in the same general area. I'd like to know the name of your Pin Tech?
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Old 01-09-2014, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coil_Smoke View Post
Well...That could be a unusually good deal . To snag a '100%' functioning machine like that for less than $350 sounds almost too good. It is a bit of a gambol with failure of major components unique to WICO/AF-TOR. Did you say you have the replacement CPU? I figure many other more usual parts would be standard pinball fare. The machine looks cool. 4 Pop Bumpers,Florescent displays, dual in-lanes and ramps that should give the game a nice flow. We live in the same general area. I'd like to know the name of your Pin Tech?
The game is indeed a blast. It was a gamble but it definitely paid off. The price included rubber rings, a bottle of novus to clean the playfield myself, post caps, and actually it came out to right at $350 cause i forgot to include the price of the post caps.

my tech is Pete from AVP pinball in parkville. great guy, great rates ($40/hr in shop; i think $100 for the first hour and $80/hr after that in home)

http://www.avppinball.com/
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